Milan’s Menswear Fashion Week: A Winter Wonderland of Style
Milan’s menswear fashion week kicked off on January 16, showcasing a vibrant blend of wintery and sporty aesthetics from renowned designers like Ralph Lauren and Dsquared2. This year’s event not only highlighted the latest trends but also set the stage for a conversation about the future of fashion amidst economic challenges.
Ralph Lauren’s Triumphant Return
After a 24-year hiatus, Ralph Lauren made a grand return to Milan, bringing with him a collection that epitomized American elegance. The runway was adorned with formal suits and tweeds, all complemented by rugged boots and cowboy footwear. The show attracted a star-studded audience, including actors Liam Hemsworth and Tony Leung Ka-fai, who added a touch of glamour to the proceedings.
Lauren’s collection was particularly timely, as it looked ahead to the upcoming Winter Olympics in Milan, where he will be dressing the U.S. team. The designs featured nods to winter sports in Aspen, with patterned jumpers and a striking blue ski suit cinched with turquoise accents, encapsulating both functionality and style.
Dsquared2’s Provocative Presentation
Dsquared2 also made waves with its Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, presenting a bold vision of holidaymakers clad in eye-catching footwear. The collection featured puffer jackets designed like dresses and oversized parkas topped with XXL faux fur hats, embodying the theme of "hot as ice." Canadian actor Hudson Williams, known for his role in the television series Heated Rivalry, opened the show, adding a layer of celebrity allure to the event.
A Return to Craftsmanship
In a more intimate setting, designer Alessandro Sartori unveiled Zegna’s latest collection, inviting buyers and journalists into a personal wardrobe experience. The collection showcased structured jackets paired with flowing trousers in earthy tones of natural green and terracotta, utilizing innovative fabrics. Carlo Capasa, head of the Italian Chamber of Commerce, praised Sartori’s work as a reflection of a trend towards a return to basics, craftsmanship, and tailoring—an encouraging sign for an industry facing significant challenges.
The State of Italian Fashion
Italy’s fashion industry is currently grappling with a downturn, marked by a 2.1 percent decline in menswear turnover in 2025, amounting to €11.2 billion. This decline is attributed to falling exports and issues related to subcontracting practices. While every category has seen a downturn, leather garments remain a notable exception, highlighting the complexities within the sector.
Exports to key markets like France, Germany, and the United States have decreased by two percent, while imports have risen by 2.8 percent. Despite a reduction in demand from China, Capasa noted that Italian brands are actively exploring new markets, including Mercosur countries, the Middle East, and India, in a bid to revitalize the industry.
Anticipation for Giorgio Armani
As the week progresses, anticipation builds for Giorgio Armani’s show scheduled for January 19 in Milan’s historic fashion quarter. This event will be particularly poignant, as it marks the first collection presented without the guidance of the legendary founder, who passed away in September at the age of 91. Leo Dell’Orco, Armani’s partner and collaborator, has indicated that the collection will maintain continuity while introducing bright touches and innovative fabrics, symbolizing a respectful evolution of the brand.
The Weekend Lineup
The weekend promises to be equally exciting, with established names like Prada and Dolce & Gabbana showcasing their latest collections. British designer Paul Smith is also making a comeback, following his first menswear show in June of the previous year. The diverse lineup reflects the dynamic nature of Milan’s fashion scene, offering a glimpse into the future of menswear.
Milan’s menswear fashion week is not just a showcase of style; it is a reflection of the industry’s resilience and adaptability in the face of economic challenges. As designers push boundaries and explore new themes, the event serves as a vital platform for innovation and creativity in the world of fashion.
