Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art at the V&A Museum
From the iconic red-carpet gowns worn by Ariana Grande to the surrealist skeleton dresses that defy conventional fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli’s designs have long blurred the line between fashion and art. The Victoria and Albert Museum’s new exhibition, Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art, brings this legacy into sharp focus, pairing historic couture with contemporary looks donned by modern icons like Dua Lipa, Ariana Grande, and Kendall Jenner.
The Legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli
Born in Italy and establishing her Paris couture house in the late 1920s, Schiaparelli became renowned for her bold and unconventional designs that challenged traditional notions of dress. The exhibition traces her journey, highlighting how her work evolved from mere fashion into a form of artistic expression. According to Sonnet Stanfill, the V&A’s senior curator of fashion, the pivotal moment when Schiaparelli’s designs transcended fashion into the realm of art can be pinpointed to the mid-1930s, particularly her collaborations with surrealist artist Salvador Dalí.
Collaborations with Artists
Schiaparelli’s relationship with artists was not merely one of influence; she actively integrated collaboration into her collections. Unlike many of her contemporaries, who merely socialized with artists, Schiaparelli worked closely with them, creating garments that were as much about artistic expression as they were about fashion. Stanfill emphasizes that Schiaparelli viewed dressmaking as an art form, stating, “She said, ‘dressmaking, for me, is not a profession, but an art.’”
Her partnerships with figures like Jean Cocteau and Dalí helped redefine couture, treating garments as creative works in their own right. Schiaparelli even announced her collaborations in press releases, making it a central aspect of her identity as a designer. This reciprocal relationship not only inspired her designs but also influenced the artists she collaborated with, marking her as a unique figure in the fashion world.
Schiaparelli’s London Operation
While Paris served as the avant-garde backdrop for Schiaparelli’s rise, London provided a different stage for her creativity. In 1933, she opened a London branch in Mayfair, the heart of luxury shopping at the time. Initially perceived as an unlikely fit for British society, Schiaparelli’s London clientele proved to be anything but conservative. Stanfill notes that British clients embraced vibrant colors and unusual textile prints, showcasing a daring spirit that aligned with Schiaparelli’s vision.
Her London operation, which lasted until 1939, allowed clients to purchase directly without import duties and attend local presentations. Among her high-profile clients were actress Marlene Dietrich and aviator Amy Johnson, who appreciated the boldness of her designs. The spirit of her clientele is perhaps best exemplified by Lady Jane Clark, who wore a Schiaparelli creation to the 1937 Coronation, complete with a button shaped like a bare-breasted mermaid.
Use of Color, Materials, and Detail
Schiaparelli’s silhouettes often adhered to the prevailing styles of the 1930s, but it was her attention to detail that set her apart. Rather than drastically altering shapes, she focused on innovative color combinations and embellishments. Stanfill describes her as a “strong colourist,” known for striking pairings like beetroot red with salmon pink or a dusty brown evening dress paired with a bright green feathered capelet.
Her commitment to material innovation was equally remarkable. Schiaparelli experimented with unconventional textiles such as cellophane and woven glass, ensuring her house was synonymous with creativity and innovation. Collaborations with the embroidery house Lesage resulted in richly embellished garments that epitomized the fantasy of couture technique.
The Revival of Schiaparelli
Although Schiaparelli closed her couture house in 1954, the brand remained dormant for decades before being revived in 2014. Under the creative direction of Daniel Roseberry, the house has successfully re-entered the Paris couture calendar, capturing a new audience through social media and high-profile red carpet appearances. Stanfill notes that Roseberry is adept at navigating the “attention economy,” using the brand’s history as a launching pad for contemporary designs.
Celebrity moments, such as Kendall Jenner on the runway or Demi Moore at a red carpet event, have introduced Schiaparelli’s distinctive aesthetic to a new generation. The exhibition features striking couture pieces, including the red and sculptural pink dresses worn by Ariana Grande at the 2025 Oscars, illustrating how the house continues to captivate global attention nearly a century after its founding.
Exhibition Overview
Running from March 28 to November 8, the V&A exhibition brings together around 200 objects, showcasing both Schiaparelli’s radical designs and contemporary couture. This is the first major UK exhibition dedicated to her work, aiming to highlight the breadth of her creative output. Stanfill hopes that visitors will be inspired by the diverse forms of creativity on display, which encompass not only fashion but also art and the stories behind her collaborations with stage and screen.
