Saint Laurent’s Spring-Summer 2026 Collection at Paris Fashion Week
On June 24, 2025, the Paris Fashion Week kicked off with a vibrant showcase of creativity and style, featuring the highly anticipated Spring-Summer 2026 collection by Saint Laurent. The event took place at the Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection museum, where models elegantly presented the collection alongside the captivating installation “Clinamen” by French artist Celeste Boursier-Mougenot. This marked a significant moment for Saint Laurent, as it was the brand’s official return to the fashion week calendar after a two-and-a-half-year hiatus.
A Playful Blend of Retro and Modern
Saint Laurent’s collection was a delightful mix of retro influences and contemporary flair. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello introduced playful elements, such as shorts reminiscent of those worn by the brand’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent, during his youth. These shorts were paired with bright, loose long-sleeved shirts, creating a relaxed yet stylish look. The addition of strong shoulder pads and rolled-up darted trousers, complemented by loose trench coats casually tied at the waist, added a modern twist to the nostalgic aesthetic.
The collection’s vibrant colors and oversized sunglasses evoked a sense of carefree summer days, perfectly aligning with the season’s spirit. Fashion buyer Alice Feillard from Galeries Lafayette noted that Vaccarello’s return to men’s fashion week was a positive move, reinforcing the brand’s commitment to its men’s line amidst a challenging luxury market.
The Luxury Market’s Shifting Landscape
The luxury fashion industry is currently navigating a turbulent landscape, with many brands experiencing a decline in sales and a revolving door of creative directors. Kering, Saint Laurent’s parent group, has felt the impact, with a significant drop in share prices over the past year. However, recent leadership changes, including the appointment of former Renault boss Luca de Meo as Kering’s new CEO, have sparked optimism, leading to a notable rebound in shares.
A Star-Studded Evening with Louis Vuitton
The festivities continued later that evening with Louis Vuitton’s show, hosted by artistic director Pharrell Williams at the Pompidou Centre. This VIP-studded event attracted a host of celebrities, including Beyoncé, Jay-Z, and Spike Lee. Williams unveiled a collection characterized by a quieter palette of earth tones, dusky pinks, and rich browns, while models showcased a blend of retro-inspired shorts, flared pants, and layered shirts.
The show also featured large leather trunks adorned with whimsical safari prints, a nod to the brand’s heritage in luxury travel. Notable attendees included basketball legends LeBron James and Victor "Wemby" Wembanyama, both of whom serve as ambassadors for the brand.
A Beachwear Twist from Tokyo-Based Brand
In a refreshing contrast, Tokyo-based clothing brand founded by Ryota Iwai presented a collection that revisited its urban roots with a summery, beachwear twist. Set in the courtyard of Paris’s Archives National, the collection featured swimsuits, bucket hats, and flip-flops alongside light cashmere poplin suits and soft leather garments. Iwai described the inspiration behind the collection as a blend of spring winds and contrasting styles, capturing the essence of a vibrant, dynamic season.
Anticipation for Dior’s New Era
As Paris Fashion Week unfolds, the excitement builds for Jonathan Anderson’s highly anticipated debut at Dior. The Northern Irish designer is set to oversee the men’s, women’s, and haute couture lines, a historic first since Christian Dior himself. With around 70 brands showcasing their latest collections across 40 runway shows and 30 presentations, the French capital is poised to deliver a rich and diverse fashion experience, culminating with the French label Jacquemus on Sunday.
Anderson’s arrival at Dior comes after his successful tenure at Loewe, where he revitalized the brand’s image. His fresh perspective is expected to inject new energy into Dior, making his debut a focal point of the week.
A Dynamic Fashion Landscape
The packed schedule of Paris shows stands in stark contrast to the recent cancellations in London and the reduced line-up in Milan. With major headliners and innovative designers taking center stage, Paris Fashion Week promises to be a celebration of creativity, resilience, and the ever-evolving nature of fashion. As brands navigate the complexities of the luxury market, the spirit of innovation and reinvention remains at the forefront, making this season one to watch.
