Cannes Film Festival Dress Code Changes: A New Era for Red Carpet Fashion
This month, just a day before the Cannes Film Festival was set to commence, the organizers announced a significant alteration to the dress code. The festival has banned voluminous gowns with trains and sheer, naked dresses, a move reminiscent of its controversial 2019 decision to prohibit women from wearing flat shoes on the red carpet. That earlier rule faced backlash from prominent figures like Julia Roberts and Kristen Stewart, prompting a reevaluation. In response to the latest dress code change, stylist Karla Welch expressed her discontent on Instagram, stating, “Someone pls give me a sheer dress and I’ll show Cannes what’s decent. How BORING and patriarchal and LAME.” The immediate reaction on social media, particularly among industry professionals, was one of sympathy for the designers and stylists who had invested countless hours and resources into crafting custom looks for the event.
The Power of Red Carpet Dressing
Red carpet appearances have long served as a potent tool for brand-building in the fashion industry. When a celebrity dons a designer’s creation, it not only elevates the designer’s profile but also solidifies their aesthetic identity and cultural relevance. In 2025, the stakes are higher than ever. Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok have transformed the landscape, with accounts such as @UpNextDesigner and @CheckTheTag quickly posting credited looks and even sneak peeks of sketches. This immediate visibility can be career-defining for both designers and stylists.
Albert Ayal from @UpNextDesigner notes, “The right match between a designer and a celebrity or stylist can shape how the public perceives both.” Iconic pairings, such as Harry Styles with Stephen Stokey-Daley or Timothée Chalamet with Haider Ackermann, exemplify how signature details can become synonymous with a designer’s brand. These collaborations not only enhance a designer’s public image but also create a lasting impact on their career trajectory.
Measuring Impact: The Numbers Behind Celebrity Endorsements
While quantifying the direct sales impact of a celebrity wearing a designer is challenging, the visibility generated is undeniable. According to Launchmetrics, Louis Vuitton experienced a staggering $55.2 million return in media impact value (MIV) after dressing stars like Zendaya and Lisa at the 2025 Met Gala. Lisa’s look alone accounted for nearly half of that figure, driven by the intrigue surrounding the portraits on her bodysuit. The breakdown of this impact reveals that 78% came from indirect sources—media, influencers, and other celebrities amplifying the moment across their networks.
This phenomenon underscores the unique ability of celebrities to drive virality, creating brand moments that resonate far beyond traditional marketing channels.
The Financial Burden on Designers
However, the exposure that comes with red carpet appearances is not without its costs, particularly for young or independent designers. Most red carpet looks are loaned, meaning designers often do not see direct profits unless they secure a rare paid commission. The financial burden of alterations, fittings, and international shipping can easily escalate into thousands of dollars, especially when last-minute changes arise. A publicist shared the anxiety of waiting for a piece to arrive on time, stating, “If you’re lucky, your piece arrives on time. If not, you spend days on hold with DHL and pray.”
The stakes are even higher for emerging designers. A cautionary tale from a few years ago involved a young British designer who lost a chance to dress Beyoncé due to a lost package. “We should have had someone fly it over by hand,” the PR lamented.
The Challenges for Small Brands
These risks disproportionately affect smaller brands, particularly those without substantial financial backing. Designers who can absorb high courier fees or have the infrastructure to handle last-minute requests are more likely to secure placements. Additionally, there are often hidden incentives at play. Stylist Jessica Paster revealed in 2015 that she received between $30,000 and $50,000 to dress a celebrity, while the celebrity could earn between $100,000 and $250,000 for wearing a piece. These financial arrangements can sometimes occur without the celebrity’s knowledge, complicating the dynamics of red carpet dressing.
Even when a designer is considered, there’s no guarantee their creation will make it to the red carpet. An A-list actress once had custom gowns made by three different designers for the Oscars, ultimately choosing only one to wear. “It’s always really disheartening to text the designer’s team and let them know things didn’t go their way,” stylist Tatiana Waterford explained.
The Potential for Breakthroughs
Despite these challenges, a successful placement can dramatically alter a designer’s trajectory. For instance, Ayo Edebiri’s choice to wear a Colleen Allen gown shortly after the designer’s New York Fashion Week presentation solidified Allen’s status in the industry. At the Met Gala, Kendall Jenner’s styling by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson in a Torishéju piece generated $6.6 million in MIV, showcasing the potential for independent designers to make significant waves.
However, the landscape is shifting. Post-pandemic, luxury houses have increasingly invested in red carpet appearances, creating custom dresses and signing exclusive contracts with celebrities. This trend has made it more challenging for independent designers to secure placements, as stylists often opt for established luxury brands over emerging talent.
The Ongoing Search for Originality
Despite the dominance of luxury houses, stylists continue to seek out new and unexpected designers to maintain their clients’ originality. A well-matched partnership can be crucial in building both a brand and a celebrity’s credibility. Charli XCX, for instance, has worn independent brands like All-In Studio and Javier Guijarro, demonstrating that even in a landscape saturated with luxury, independent designers can still create defining fashion moments.
As Ayal notes, “In many cases, it’s the new designers who are delivering the moments that feel the most exciting.” The ripple effect of a single look can be profound, often starting a trend that resonates throughout the industry.
